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First a disclaimer:
This is intended as a guide only. If you are not confident about installing your heated grips, get them fitted professionally.
If you have any doubts about wiring, ask an expert. If you are not sure if your bike is safe - don't ride it.
All work is carried out at your own risk.
Due to the huge variety in bike styles, the time required, or the complexity of the work may vary.
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Tools and items needed for the job:
Allen keys, stanley knife, wire cutters, phillips screwdriver, test screwdriver or circuit tester,
electrical tape, 10-15 small cable ties (pref black), GT85 spray, meths or some sort of cleaner.
Assorted spanners - whatever is required for removal of parts / panels on your particular bike.
Time to carry out the job? .. Between 1 and 2 hours - depending on the bike and how tidy you want to make it!
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Remove both bar end weights and existing handlebar grips.
The grips may be difficult to get off - so you might have to cut them carefully with a stanley knife.
Score the rubber along it's length being careful not to cut right through - especially on the throttle side as it may damage the plastic throttle tube.
Once the grips start to cut, they should tear and come off easily.
Look at the new grips..... The throttle side has a larger hole in the centre to allow the plastic throttle tube to fit.
Some grips have blanked off ends. If you have this type you should be carefully trim out the holes in the ends before fitting.
Usually the grips are a tight fit, although some heated grips are supplied with glue to help adhere to the bars.
I would recommend avoiding using the glue if possible, unless the grips are a paricularly bad fit.
Getting glue between the throttle tube and the bar is easy to do - and is not a good idea for obvious reasons!
Slide the left grip onto the bar, positioning the wire in the 6 o'clock position at the bottom.
Run the wire along under the bar following the existing switch wiring and use the small cable ties to secure.
Re-fit the bar end weight.
The throttle side is slightly different.
Some throttle tubes have locating ribs or ridges to secure the standard handlebar grip.
Check to make sure the new grip will slide onto the tube correctly. You should not bang the end or use excessive force.
If it's too (seriously) tight, you may need to help it on with a squirt of lube.
GT 85 is perfect because it evaporates after a few minutes without leaving any oily residue that may cause the grip to slip later.
Position the grip with the wire at the 6 o'clock position as with the left side.
OK - at this point - a short break - while we discuss life and death.
There are two things that can go wrong when fitting heated grips.
The first problem is no big deal. You mess up the wiring and the grips don't work. Oh well!
The other problem is a little more serious.
If you don't allow enough slack wire on the throttle side.... or when you tighten up the bar end weight and it tightens onto the new handlebar grip, both of these things will result in the throttle sticking...and the inevitable result of those small oversights may be life threatening.
SO.... with that in mind..... take care!
Run the throttle side wire along the underside of the handlebar.
Temporarily secure it to the throttle cable, or one of the switch wires under the bar with a small piece of electrical tape.
Twist the throttle from fully closed to fully open.
Watch the wire and check to see if it is restricting the return of the throttle back to the closed position.
Snap the throttle open and closed several times to ensure that it has free, completely unrestricted movement.
This is VERY important. If it's tight, allow a little more wire to hang below the grip where it is secured with tape.
Once you have established that everything is ok, replace the piece of tape with a small cable tie.
Follow the throttle cable or wiring along the bars, securing with cable ties - making sure everything is tidy.
The best heated grips are the ones that are not obvious! Take your time to do a neat job.
Route both grip wires to the area where you intend to fit the control switch.
The bar end weight should be replaced - making sure that it does not touch the handlebar grip.
If the weight interferes with the grip, remove the weight and add a small washer - or two, as a spacer.
Honda bar weights have a stepped shoulder where the weight bolts on to the bar.
It is still ok to simply add the washer/s to the bolt to create more room and tighten securely
There should be a small gap at the outer end of the grip, between the grip and the weight.
Re-tighten the bolt and check for free throttle movement.
Once you are happy at this stage - stop and have a fag and a cup of tea.
Depending on whether. your bike has a fairing, you need to determine where to fit the on/off switch.
Some heated grips come with a heat control dial - some come with a simple toggle switch.
It is not recommended that you fiddle with the heated grip controls while riding.
I suggest that you fit it on the left side, so that you don't have to let go of the throttle while you operate the switch.
(While stationary - of course!)
Once you have decided where the switch is going, take a few minutes to think about where the wires are going to hide.
Don't actually fit the switch at this stage.
It is best to remove whatever is neccessary to allow for a tidy job.
Don't hold back! Allow yourself good access to the wiring etc.
There are a couple of ways of "powering" the grips.
The obvious one is to connect the live and earth wires directly to the battery terminals.
The problems with this method, are that you will be able to leave the grips on - causing a flat battery.
Also there is always the chance that someone can turn the grips on while the bike is left unattended - same result...flat!
I prefer to find a wire that is dead when the ignition key is off and live only when the key is turned on.
A good choice is the wire that provides power to the rear brake light switch. See notes below*
In most cases, the switch is mounted either on, or very close to the rear brake cylinder, where the pedal actuates the brake.
It usually looks like a small black plastic cylinder with two wires coming out of one end.
The switch is usually tucked away in there somewhere. I have included a picture of the Ducati one. Spot the switch!
Remove the seat and / or possibly the side panel on the right side of the bike to allow access to the wires.
Follow those wires up the frame - they usually have a connection that will come out near or under the seat area somewhere and join into the main loom.
One of the two wires will be live when the ignition is turned on.
This can be checked with a circuit test screwdriver.
The new wire that will carry power to the fuse -> switch -> grips should be connected to this wire.
You can tell which wire it is, because it will have a fuse in line before it leads to the control switch.
Make sure the ignition key is off when connecting the wires. (Take the key out!)
The easiest way to connect is by using a "scotch connector".
If you've never seen or used one, heres some help:
Try to chose a good place to join the wires. Under the seat, or in a hidden position is best.
Once the new "live" wire is connected to the brake switch wire, connect the new earth wire to the negative battery terminal.
Route all the wires along the frame, or under the tank, in such a way that they are not likely to rub anything or get pinched causing a short out.
The control switch should have two other sets of wires.
These will be the ones that connect to the left and right handlebar grips.
In most cases, there is no difference which wire is live or earth on the grips.
Each grip will have a "live" and an "earth" wire.
If you are usure which wire goes where, consult the instructions - or get advice.
The earth wire from both grips will go together into one of the switch wires and the live wires - one from each grip go together and connect to the switch.
Yours may have "block" type connectors that can only be joined in one particular way.
Before mounting the control switch, check to make sure that there will be no restriction when turning the handlebars.
If the switch is on or near the bars, connect the wires and check to see that there is room for the wiring to tuck down out of sight or so that is causes no problems when riding.
If the switch is being mounted on a fairing that doesn't move when the bars are turned, make sure that the switch does not hit the bars or levers when turning.
Check the wires to ensure that nothing is tight or getting tangled when the steering is turned.
When you are 100% happy with all aspects of the wiring, it's time to test the system.
Check to make sure the switch is in the OFF position.
Turn on the Ignition and start the bike. Turn the grips ON and if your switch has heat control - turn to HIGH or RUN.
The grips usually take a minute or two to start warming up.
Once it has been established that everything works, perminantly fit the control switch.
If it is secured with double sided tape, clean the area with meths, switch cleaner or something similar that won't damage the paintwork. As long as there is no polish in the area, the tape will hold the switch perfectly well.
Check the new fuse - see what amperage it is - make a mental note to get a spare next time you are in the shop!
Re-fit the seat, sidepanels, petrol tank - or whatever you had to remove to do the work.
Go for a test ride and check the throttle set-up once you get back.
Note* Some bikes that are fitted with ABS are not suitable for powering the grips from the brake switch.
If in doubt consult your dealer or professional mechanic.
Note: in some cases, after a period of time, the grips may twist slightly.
This is due to the heat causing them to soften and expand.
If this happens, twist them back to the correct position, checking (again) for the correct play on the throttle side.
Attached File(s)
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heated handlebar grips -basic.jpg (32.22K)
Number of downloads: 19 -
right grip is larger for throttle.jpg (22.63K)
Number of downloads: 18 -
remove grips and end weights.jpg (38.77K)
Number of downloads: 9 -
throttle tube.jpg (34.66K)
Number of downloads: 12 -
rear brake light switch.jpg (37.83K)
Number of downloads: 12 -
leave enough wire for throttle movement.jpg (35.41K)
Number of downloads: 12 -
space out the bar end weight.jpg (29.35K)
Number of downloads: 8
This post has been edited by Jarv: 30 October 2010 - 10:45 AM
