Cold Weather = Reluctant Starts Could it be the battery?
#1
Posted 07 December 2011 - 12:26 PM
Basically I can turn on the bike, turn the choke on, and hit the starter but it seems very weak. As if there's not enough current going to spin the starter. And it becomes weaker the longer you try. The thing is the lights all work and heated grips still work too so the battery has some charge in it. Is it that it just doesn't have enough to turn the starter after lying up in the cold for a few hours?
(Note: I don't leave the lights and grips on when attempting to start it hahaha!)
Some nights I've had to push start it but after a spin along the link road then it will fire up with no problems at all when I stop it and start it again a few minutes later as a test. I suppose this is because the battery has been charged from the spin.
The thing is the battery is relatively new...I only fitted it in the summer...
Always ask why...
Other Replies To This Topic
#2
Posted 07 December 2011 - 12:35 PM
#3
Posted 07 December 2011 - 01:15 PM
1. Ignition off
2. Ignition on
3. Engine running
With the engine running you should be getting about 14v or so
Mag & RoSPA
#4
Posted 07 December 2011 - 01:37 PM
#5
Posted 07 December 2011 - 02:07 PM
Many years ago I had a Cortina with a dodgy starter and found that a tap with a ball hammer freed it up.
I've replaced the graphite in a few starters on bikes, electric drills etc. and it does no harm to take the starter apart and make sure that everything's working smoothly (they can get gummed up).
Hope this helps
#6
Posted 07 December 2011 - 05:16 PM
Always ask why...
#7
Posted 07 December 2011 - 05:53 PM
#8
Posted 07 December 2011 - 05:54 PM
This post has been edited by Fr Dougal: 07 December 2011 - 06:05 PM
Caution: May contain traces of nut
#9
Posted 07 December 2011 - 07:05 PM
This post has been edited by Gasman: 07 December 2011 - 07:06 PM
#10
Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:46 PM
#11
Posted 08 December 2011 - 09:05 AM
If weather gets really bad (hopefully not) take the battery out and leave it in the house so the ice / cold dont get into it.
#12
Posted 08 December 2011 - 10:21 AM
Ziggy, on 07 December 2011 - 11:46 PM, said:
My first thought as well, Fabio, when you start the bike in the morning do you switch the lights and heated grips on straight away? Might be worth knocking off the heated grips a few minutes before you get to your destination (leave your lights on though) I can't imagine they'd lose heat too quick & it give the battery a chance to recover a bit more of a charge?
#13
Posted 08 December 2011 - 10:48 AM
#14
Posted 08 December 2011 - 11:26 AM
piston broke, on 08 December 2011 - 10:48 AM, said:
Agreed, but if he's running the grips from the moment he starts the bike until the moment he switches it off, its possible its not getting enough of a charge to top it it up and its been prematurely run down.
#15
Posted 08 December 2011 - 12:38 PM
KaosTheory, on 08 December 2011 - 11:26 AM, said:
Fair nuff, maybe a good long charge overnight might sort it, but hes gotta cut back on the heated grip use or it will be back to square 1 again, or at least keep em on a lower setting for town use?
#16
Posted 09 December 2011 - 01:58 PM
fabio, on 07 December 2011 - 12:26 PM, said:
A possibility, just a possibility is that you have a poor connection somewhere in the system that limits the ability of the alternator to charge the battery. A good start is to give the main terminals a really good clean and reconnect. Another thing to look at is your electrolyte level ( if you have a normal ie: not sealed type).
I would think that a good battery and a charging system in good order would easily cope with lights and grip heaters.
Hope you get it sorted. Nasty getting stuck without power.
#17
Posted 09 December 2011 - 03:01 PM
This post has been edited by evoblade: 09 December 2011 - 03:03 PM
#18
Posted 09 December 2011 - 06:56 PM
Went to start it last night after a house party in the School of History here in college (and it was a proper rocking party in there too till security had to lock up) but it went limp again. I fecked off for a while to chat to a few people and then decided to go and get a loan of a voltmeter to check the battery. It read as 12.32 volts so all seemed well. I hit the starter button while keeping he voltmeter on the battery and the bike fired up fine and the batter immediately jumped to 14 volts as it should do on a fast tickover (choke was on now!).
This leads me to think it must be the starter motor because in the mean time I did move it a few feet and the initial weak attempt at starting it maybe freed up the motor a bit.
As regards the heated grips and lights. I keep those off until I have my arse in the saddle and am releasing the clutch to go for the reasons people have said above. Makes sense!
Always ask why...
#19
Posted 09 December 2011 - 07:15 PM
fabio, on 09 December 2011 - 06:56 PM, said:
Went to start it last night after a house party in the School of History here in college (and it was a proper rocking party in there too till security had to lock up) but it went limp again. I fecked off for a while to chat to a few people and then decided to go and get a loan of a voltmeter to check the battery. It read as 12.32 volts so all seemed well. I hit the starter button while keeping he voltmeter on the battery and the bike fired up fine and the batter immediately jumped to 14 volts as it should do on a fast tickover (choke was on now!).
This leads me to think it must be the starter motor because in the mean time I did move it a few feet and the initial weak attempt at starting it maybe freed up the motor a bit.
As regards the heated grips and lights. I keep those off until I have my arse in the saddle and am releasing the clutch to go for the reasons people have said above. Makes sense!
id give the battery a good overnite charge before stripping out stater motors, battery may just need a good boost
#20
Posted 09 December 2011 - 07:31 PM
piston broke, on 09 December 2011 - 07:15 PM, said:
Agreed
Caution: May contain traces of nut
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